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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.